Rabat Capital Of Morocco

It's the capital of a Kingdom and is home to 1.8 million people, still Morocco's third largest city, Rabat, leads a relatively anonymous existence on the country's Atlantic coast.

A short 45-minute train ride from Casablanca, Rabat is a place where Moroccan history spectacularly collides with modern life; and where the country's European roots wonderfully weave themselves through its African heritage.

Just taking a stroll through the closed quarters of the city, you'll see families play games on the local sandy beach - while a few minutes inland the brilliant-white, blue-trimmed homes of the 12th Century Oudayas Kasbah wind their way back from the ocean. It's a place of old and new; both co-existing and welcoming.

What to see

The bubbling European feel is hard to miss; a new tram system glides through relatively clear roads and the local marina is currently being redeveloped. Cafés spill out onto the pavement and polished furniture store windows twinkle under the sun. But just a short walk up the hill, the vibrance of today disappears into an enveloping history; the remains of the old Roman city appear out of the earthy hills in the Gardens of Sala Colonia in Chellah. This ancient site was almost completely destroyed during the Lisbon earthquake of 1755, but thankfully parts still stand, along with the medieval Muslim tombs buried deep in the sand.

On arrival, we climbed the huge stone steps, discovering little doorways and peering through what should have been windows. The stone walls stood bright and tall against the deep blue sky backdrop providing picture perfect opportunities. The glistening site is now home to a colony of storks, and they make their presence known.

On the other side of town, we discovered Rabat's colonial district and its impressive Art Deco architecture. The local post office still stands as it did back in the 1920s, surrounded by an old police station and courts built in the '30s. The wide avenues lined with palms provide a perfect shady pitstop for a coffee, mint tea or ice cream. Down the road, the semi-built Hassan Tower of 1196 stands tall amongst a sea of stone columns, while next door the beautifully constructed Mausoleum of King Hassan II and Prince Abdallah is guarded by traditionally-clad soldiers.

The Royal Palace and its grounds are often closed to the public but it is worth stopping outside to take in the magnificence and vastness of the complex. Inside there are the Royal Courts, staff housing and a school; plus acres of gardens.

The shopping

If I can give you one tip, it's leave plenty of room in your suitcase for shopping because Rabat's souks are home to a wealth of bargain buys. Leather shoes and handbags, patterned scarves, clay gifts and a whole range of olives and spices all occupy stalls across the narrow undercover paths.

The salesmen let you take your pick of the goods without feeling pressure (a world away from the hopeful cries of 'Bonjour monsieur? Madame?' as soon as you step into the souks in Marrakech). Here, there's a quiet, slowly-slowly movement around the busy market; it's quite extraordinary.

The food

Piles of fresh; fluffy couscous with honey-coated pumpkin and squash; tender melt-in-your-mouth lamb tagine; juicy chicken in a caramelised gravy - you won't go hungry here. Was it down with a café au lait or glass of the Moroccan red wine, it's distinct and great.

We found local eatery Le Ziryab, by trailing through the quiet Medina streets after-hours. Identified by a lonely doorway, you only have to tap the huge wooden door once to be allowed in and following a short walk through a secret corridor, you'll arrive in the most beautiful traditionally-decorated room. The lights are dim to set the mood and three musicians sit low against the pillars playing Moroccan folk tunes. The round tables sit in little coves, surrounded by soft velvet stools and candles; the perfect setting.

Indulge in some R&R

Just 25 minutes down the road sits Rabat's sister city, Salé - and it's here you'll find the luxurious L'Amphitrite Palace hotel. The Spa here invites day guests and locals in for couple's massages, as well as body scrub treatments, a Hammam and saunas - while the delicious infinity pool delicately lies in front of the ocean.

Where to stay

The L'Alcazar Riad in the centre of the city blew me away with its incredibly compact, but luxurious rooms. Perfect for everyone from honeymooners to friends to solo travellers, this type of hotel is traditional to Morocco; with an inner enclosed courtyard set up perfectly for sitting around reading or sipping mint teas, and a roof terrace where you can contemplate your day with a beer while looking over the Rabat rooftops.

The verdict

If there's one thing to remember about travelling to Morocco, it would be please don't bypass Rabat. Marrakesh may have the bustling bazaars and tourist comforts, while Casa' fame through Humphrey Bogart's 1940s movie draws in the millions; but Rabat's charm is its silence - this is a home to great history, eye-opening beauty, fresh produce and sense of strength and pride... but no one shouts about it. And that's what makes this place all the more special.

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Beautiful city of Essaouira by Atlantic Ocean

History

Essaouira - “the jewel of the Atlantic” - is a small fortified port on the same latitude as Marrakech, between Safi and Agadir. see Morocco map
Since the first century B.C., there has been a small settlement on the Purple Islands, so-called because the murex, a mollusc from which the colour purple was extracted, was found in its waters.
In the 15th century, the Portuguese then came and built the first fortifications. The Scala is worthy of special mention. The city was then given the name Mogador.
Later, in the 18th century, merchants from Europe also arrived and the city began to enjoy its Golden Age. The sultan of that time, Sidi Mohamed ben Abdallah, decided to make it the most important port of the kingdom. He permitted different tribes to inhabit the city and consulates to be established: Denmark first, then France, Brasil and Portugal. This intelligent and tolerant prince even welcomed an important Jewish community, which contributed greatly to the development of the city. Mogador became the first Moroccan port to trade with the non-islamic world. It also became the destination for caravans bringing African riches from Timbuctu.
The town-planning was entrusted to the Frenchman Théodore Cornut, disciple of Vauban, who gave the city its present look, building ramparts and straight, wide streets.
However, the end of the big caravans and the development of Casablanca caused the decline of the city and it became less and less important.
Finally, in the 20th century, after the independence of the country, the town was given the name Essaouira- ‘the well designed’.
However, in the seventies, the hippies discovered the town again and it became a fashionable destination, where even pop stars of that time - Jimmy Hendrix, Cat Stevens and others - liked to stay. Fascinated by its natural beauty, the film producer Orson Welles made his famous movie ‘Othello’ there.
Today, Essaouira, recently classified by Unesco as part of the World Heritage, should not be missed when visiting Morocco.
Tolerance, a multi-confessional tradition, the mildness of its climate and the kindness of its inhabitants make a visit worthwhile.

The old city

When entering one of the monumental gates, Bab Sbâa, Bab Marrakech or Bab Doukhala, you find yourself in the midst of an animated and joyful crowd, where everybody is going about his own business. There are no motor vehicles here, everything is carried by carts sometimes drawn by mules. What fascinates visitors are the white-washed house walls, the blue doors and windows which are reminiscent of Mediterranean islands. Owing to the straight main streets, you will have no problem finding your way and even if you get lost in the numerous small lanes, sooner or later you will find a main street again... or a dead-end.
What is also worth seeing is the central market with its numerous butcher shops. Under the market arcades you can find all kinds of merchants selling vegetables, spices and seeds, meat and fish.
To get away from the hustle and bustle of the marketplace, a glimpse at the ocean view from the Scala - the fortified place of the city - is breathtaking with its beautiful battery of canons pointing out to the sea.
Sooner or later, you will come to Moulay Hassan Square lined by trees and coffee bars where you can drink a peppermint tea and watch the coming and going of the Souiris, the inhabitants of Essaouira, who are very fond of this square.
A bit further on, past the Gate of the Marine, you will reach the port and shipyard, where ships are still built in the traditional way.

Handicraft

In the Jewish community there were jewellers who made their own jewels but when they left the country, this activity stopped. However, you can still find some shops that sell mainly silver items.
Wood carving is in fact the main craft in Essaouira. You will find some wonderful items made of thuya wood, inlaid with other kinds of wood such as lemon tree or ebony. The objects range from simple key cases to ornate cupboards, desks, stools and tables. Thuya wood, a typical scent of the medina, will stay in your memories because of the numerous workshops under the arcades of the Scala.
Of course, you can find shops selling typical Moroccan items such as carpets, blankets, babouches, iron or copper articles, pottery, ceramic, tables covered with tiles. Some objects are actually made in the shops themselves: lamps covered with leather and decorated with henna, musical instruments (djembés, guembris).


Painting

In the past, Essaouira attracted poets, artists and other creative talents, but modern art and especially painting have found here again a favourable environment. It would not be exaggerated to speak of an ‘Essaouira School’ representing a mixture of modern and naïve art, which finds its inspiration in the Gnaoua culture. There emerged a real “cradle” of artists, of whom the most famous is Mohamed Tabal. Although without any academic or artistic education, one day they were inspired and expressed their creativity on canvas, producing some great and sometimes astonishing works of art.
In the meantime, these artists have acquired global recognition and exhibit their work all over the world.


Music

Essaouira is famous for Gnaoua music, first introduced by the caravan men from Africa. The musicians play on percussion instruments (djembés) and strings (guembris), and the dancers, entranced by the rhythm, use castanets called krakeb.
Their shows or lilas are mostly organized in private circles and find their culmination at the June festival of Gnaoua music, which has become internationally famous. It is now open to other forms of music and is called Festival of World Music. In 2001, the king of raï-music Cheb Mami and in 2004, the Wailers, the former group of Bob Marley, captivated the audience on Moulay Hassan Square.

The beach

The beaches are splendid and endless. They are visited in the morning by joggers and in the afternoon by volley ball players and families. The picturesque bay of Essaouira, protected from the big waves of the ocean by the Mogador islands, is a paradise for wind surfers thanks to the constant and strong winds
For surf enthusiasts, the coast offers some famous spots like Sidi Kaoki or Moulay Bouzarktoun, the former in the south and the latter in the north of Essaouira.


The region of Essaouira

When leaving the town in the direction of Marrakech after about 2 km, you come to a wonderful panorama. Then you go through forests of thuyas, eucalyptus and especially argan, which only grow in this area. The argan trees produce nuts from which a delicious oil is made.

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Chefchaouen The Blue City

Chefchaouen or Chaouen, as it is often called by Moroccans, is a popular tourist destination because of its proximity to Tangier and the Spanish enclave of Ceuta. The name refers to the shape of the mountain tops above the town, that look like the two horns (chaoua) of a goat. "Chef Chaouen" derives from the Berber word for horns, Ichawen. There are approximately two hundred hotels catering to the summer influx of European tourists. One distinction possessed by Chefchaouen is its blue-rinsed houses and buildings.
Chefchaouen is a popular shopping destination as well, as it offers many native handicrafts that are not available elsewhere in Morocco, such as wool garments and woven blankets. The goat cheese native to the area is also popular with tourists.
The countryside around it has a reputation for being a prolific source of kief. The Chefchaouen region is one of the main producers of cannabis in Morocco. Hashish is subsequently sold all over town, but is mostly the domain of native Chaouenis.
The growing tourist industry is geared especially towards Spanish tourists, who are especially numerous during great Catholic feasts like Semana Santa and Christmas. Chefchaouen was visited by Joe Orton and Kenneth Halliwell in 1967. They adored it finding it "very 'Golden Bough-ish'."[citation needed] Orton mentions their trip in the Orton Diaries.

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Marrakech is great and beautiful city

Marrakech is great and beautiful city to visit also as it is great gateway to the desert tours but also to the surrounding areas. A lot to do. Great food. Friendly people. You can easily book excursion from Marrakech to the Atlas Mountains in 1 hour change of scenery to tall mountains and Berber villages. Or you can travel to the coastal town of Essaouria or the Ouzoud Waterfalls. Or if you don't mind bit of travel you can even travel to the Kasbah of Ait Ben haddou across the High Atlas Mountains.

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